Eating Vicariously: Allen & Delancey

Sometimes I really really miss New York.


And reading this, from the chef at Allen & Delancey, well, this is one of those times.

Potatoes: We slice them very thinly, then layer them, brushing each slice with some rendered bacon fat....

Oh my God. Yes. Do want!


[where: 10002]

Eating Seattle: Villa Victoria

Try this: Bring up the fact that Villa Victoria’s back open, selling those addictive homemade tamales, and you’ll know the real-deal food obsessives from the fakers. A happy light will come into their eyes, a smile will creep up, and before you know it they’ll be telling you all about the good old days, when Naomi Andrade Smith would pop open the window of her Madrona catering kitchen and dish out Seattle’s best tamales. Then they’ll start asking for directions.

she's back
Six years ago, chef Naomi Andrade Smith earned herself a cult following for her banana leaf-wrapped tamales, made with the most tender, moist masa imaginable. They tasted better than any you could get anywhere, including much of Mexico. But, just as Smith was planning to open a real store-front take-out shop to keep up with increasing demand, she fell ill. And Seattle went into withdrawal.

The good news is that she’s back in good health. The other good news is that she’s, well, back. Back with fried plantains that you can buy by the pound. With whole roast chicken adobo, ready to take home. Back with some of the best guacamole in the world (which you can pass off as your own—she won’t tell). And back selling those perfect tamales, filled with Oaxacan mole and chicken, beef with red mole, and cheese and jalapeno. The burritos are back as well: chile-marinated whitefish and lime, tofu in adobo, carne asada. All served out of a sunny, colorful storefront just off the main-drag in Columbia City.

Showing her Seattle roots, Smith’s roasting her own coffee, too. Sip a cup of her Café Mocambo brew as you browse the case, salivating over her spicy Mexican rice and homemade black beans, or the dreamy orange rind-flecked wedding cookies. There’s no doubt about it: The good old days are back. Get there and eat.



[where: 98118]

Food News: Restaurants opening all over town

Seattle's going through a growth spurt. There are restaurants opening every week (almost every day) right now, and not just the forgettable sort. These are really exciting restaurant openings.

I just drove by Lola's South City Bakery which opened in early November just south of Columbia City in Hillman City, on Rainier. It's a darling space and, so far, is getting raves on Yelp.

Then there's Txori, the much anticipated offspring of Madison Valley fave Harvest Vine.
image via Txori

The exciting part is that this is a true Tapas bar (not "small plates," a concept that is really starting to drive me nuts). And that means prices that aren't impossible to afford, like $2.50 bites of chorizo with chocolate (not exactly an original idea, but delicious nonetheless). I can't wait to go.

Of course that leaves Ethan Stowell's How to Cook A Wolf, the "is it or isn't it open?" restaurant of the group. Turns out it isn't, quite yet. I stopped by yesterday and the windows are still papered. I'll keep you posted. Early word is a menu that concentrates on seafood and (yep, you guessed it) small plates.

Also open (actually reopened) is Villa Victoria in Columbia City. Yep, the Madrona tamale lady is back! Watch for more on that soon.

Then there's the crop that've opened in the last few weeks: Quinn's, which is earning raves from everyone I've talked to; Joule, ditto; and Artemis, again, raves all around.

Then there's Kappo Chiso, the omakase-only experience above Chiso in Fremont.


A "kappo," as its known in Japan, is meant to be a personal experience for the diner, an intimate opportunity to talk to the chef while you are enjoying your meal.

I had the unimaginable opportunity to dine at Masa , the ultimate omakase experience, in NYC. I dined there alone (a girl's expense account can only afford one $450/per person sushi meal. No, really, it costs that much) and had the best time imagineable, talking and joking with Chef Masa Takayama. It was magic. And that's why it's so disappointing to hear that Kappo Chiso isn't all that special. This city is sorely in need of a remarkable omakase experience.

Did I miss anything? Have you been to these new places?

PS--You've got til Thursday to enjoy 30 for $30.


[where: 98101]

Eating In: Butter pecan ice cream

It's a tie.

The incredibly delicious turkey we bought from Tom at Meadow Wood Organic Farm was the best turkey I've ever tasted. By far. I did a simple sage-salt-pepper butter under the skin and we basted her pretty often, but there's no way any of that made a difference. The heritage turkey just plain tastes turkier.

But the addictive, insanely rich homemade butter pecan ice cream I made to go with Dad's apple pie? I guess we'll have to call it even.

I hardly ever follow a recipe to a T, and this time is no different. I meant to follow it, but we didn't have enough pecans (yeah yeah, I know, who makes butter pecan without pecans?) But you know what? I'm not sure I'd bother adding them next time since this ice cream--sans nuts--is pure rich maple-y goodness. It's a wow. Here's the recipe. Oh, and for the original, check out Leite's Culinaria.

Butter Pecan Ice Cream
3 large egg yolks
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup milk
3/4 cup light cream
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Whisk egg yolks in a medium heat-safe bowl until pale yellow and set aside.

In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, melt butter until it begins to brown and smell nutty, stirring constantly. Add brown sugar and stir until melted. This can take up to 5 minutes, so be patient.

Reduce heat to low, very slowly add milk and light cream while whisking, and bring to a simmer. Do not boil! Be patient--this step can take a few minutes.

Drizzle half the milk mixture into the egg yolks very slowly and whisk until blended.

Whisk the egg yolk mixture into the remaining milk and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, 5+ minutes. Be careful not to overheat; if you do so you will curdle the egg yolks and you'll have to start over. If testing with a candy thermometer, do not heat past 170°F [76C].)

Strain the batter into a clean, large heat-safe bowl. Stir in heavy cream and vanilla extract. Cover and refrigerate the batter until completely cold, preferably overnight.

Stir the batter gently and freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Remove the ice cream with a spatula and store in a plastic container in the freezer.




[where: 98118]

Good Read: Ruhlman on how to make turkey stock

Watcha doin' during Apple Cup?


Nope, I'm not talking about drinking beer. Nah, not eating Velveeta chili dip either. That's all fine and dandy, but what I'm talking about will change your life in no small way.

Friends, today you're making turkey stock! That turkey carcas you keep thinking you're going to do something else with but never will? That carcas is going to avoid getting tossed this year. This year you'll use its delicious broth for weeks or months to come.

And Ruhlman's going to tell you just how incredibly easy it is to make.

...By the end of Thursday, tens of millions of households will have the most miraculous ingredients for stock right at hand--turkey bones that have been lovingly roasted. And most of these households will have three more days of holiday to put them to use. That roasted turkey carcass, will make an extraordinary rich delicious poultry broth. Far superior to chicken stock. Infinitely versatile. Health-giving! Yea, verily, I say unto you!

Find the full piece (and so-easy-a-baby-could-do-it directions) here.

Oh, and GO HUSKIES!

Good Read: Michèle Gentille on cheffing in Antarctica

A Brooklyn chef and cookbook writer (she co-authored the new Laurent Tourandel cookbook) moves to Antarctica to cook. And blogs about it.
Think you're adventurous? Read this and then we'll talk.


A taste:

It’s still early in the summer, more like early spring, so temperatures are not at hat-shedding levels yet, and many of these folks spend their days in 40 to 90 degrees below zero, engaged in physical labor of some sort. After only one week of arduous outdoor work, the carpenters, cargo haulers, and mechanical geniuses that keep things working bought up all the superglue—there is a tiny shop here, open an hour a day-- to patch up their cracking fingers.

Thanks to Andrea Strong for the link.

Thanksgiving Bonus!

The word "awesome" has lost much of its oomph from years of abuse by potheads and valleygirls. But Paul McCartney making mashed potatoes while dressed somewhat like a sprocket? Awesome.

Thanksgiving, ho!

You picked a fine time to leave your phone in a Renton hockey rink, Lucille! Yes, friends, your fearless eater, after making a list of all the cooking, cleaning, prepping, cleaning, grocery shopping, Costco-ing and general Thanksgiving-ing yet to be done this week, decided, hey! You know what'd be fun? Driving down to Renton to pick up a friggin' cell phone just for sh*ts and giggles. Road trip!

Actually, the strangest part is that I was already planning a trip to Enumclaw tomorrow (and Renton's on the way).


You see, I'm going to pick up my heritage turkey! OK, I know, driving 40 minutes both ways to pick up a turkey kinda puts a dent in the old "eating local, sustainable food" thing, right? Yep. But you know what? Tough.

You see, I get to see where our turkey lived, ate, walked and played. I also get to meet Tom, the farmer who raised our Thanksgiving turkey on his farm, Meadow Wood Organics. And his dog, Asha, who's incredibly good looking, don't you think?


He's no Callie-dog, but come on, that's setting the bar pretty high.



They also raise goats at Meadow Wood, so I'm planning on talking to Tom about goat meat too (we love lamb, so goat is the next frontier for us).

Anyways, here's what else we've got cooking for the holiday.

Baked Oysters --anyone have a recipe for this? I'm thinking something warm, oystery and creamy, maybe with bread crumbs on top, for eating with soft French bread
Wild Mushroom Pate --Um, yeah, not usually a big Emeril fan, but I made this last year and it is fantastic (and can be made a day in advance)

Roasted heritage turkey with sage butter --Wish us luck!
Ed's mom's stuffing --classic stuffing with some sausage in there
Caramelized Shallot and Sage Mashed Potatoes --this has become Ed's signature potato recipe
Roasted pearl onions and brussels sprouts --yum.
Mom's layered salad --yep, the one with grated cheese, frozen peas, mayo, bacon and shredded lettuce. Sounds strange, tastes pretty good.
Candied yams with marshmallows --An odd Thanksgiving invention, but they are always the first thing to go.

Pumpkin Cheesecake --My recipe. Grandma's favorite. Gotta make Grannie happy.
Apple Pie --Dad's baking one from scratch! which is a huge deal. I'm considering making some maple ice cream to go with.

What are you having?


[where: 98118]